Sunday, October 28, 2007

Around Annapurna Part II: Manang District




Picking apples under Prayer Flags and the Himalayas; Annapurna II rises about fifteen grand in vertical feet above our path.


Tidal Wave of Granite: The Paungda Danda
Gateway to the Manang Valley, aka gateway to heaven, among many other names and religious connotations, this massive granite wall (maybe 4,000 vertical?) marked our turn up the Marsyangdi valley to the higher altitudes.

Mani Wall


The Manang District is characterized by its higher and drier elevations and various aspects of Tibetan Buddhist culture. We walked along an ancient salt trade route connecting Tibet and its many descendants living in Nepal. The Manang area opened to tourists in the 1970s.



Good morning Campers!

We packed quite the kit, and one night Amaya demanded that we use it. We camped near a lake at about 10,500 feet. I had an altitude headache, while Amaya chased the local goats and ran around oblivious to our decreased oxygen. This was a great time to slow down and acclimatize. We were going to spend the next couple weeks monitoring ourselves for the affects of altitude.


Giving the Prayer Wheels a Spin









Chandra's Kitchen
In the village of Humde, 10,925 feet, we found the greatest cook. We had to stay a couple extra nights to savor his inventions. Enchiladas, lasagna, homemade breads, apple pie, etc. etc... I even enjoyed a savory Yak steak in mushroom gravy. But of course, Amaya was Chandra's favorite guest and had run of his kitchen.




Early Morning Harvest

The villages of this area were working all daylight hours harvesting grain, buckwheat, pumpkins and potatoes before winter sets in. We were amazed to see the amount of work going into the bread we ate. A connection with community and the environment that we lack back home.



Braga and its 500 year old Gompa


We moved up the valley a bit, but then discovered more apple pie and the fascinating village of Braga, 11,319 feet. The hillside Gompa is believed to be at least 500 years old; dark, mysterious and "powerfully atmospheric." We had a great view out of our guesthouse window: the gompa, and then in another direction a few peaks rising 11,000 feet above the valley floor...





The Gurung family owns and operates The New Yak hotel. They cared for us very well as we stayed with them for about a week. Numerous acclimatization hikes were made--and their bakery offered excellent trail food for the journeys. Amaya and Tierra loved playing with Dorma Chiring, the little one in the photo.






The village of Ngawal, with flat roofed buildings, typical of older Tibetan architecture, then further down is Braga. We hiked up to about 14,600 feet on this daytrip, just to see how it would feel to be "above" Mt. Rainier back at home... worlds away.




Amaya, high above the valley







A woman carrying huge bulk of wheat to the gompa with Annapurnas III and IV






Preying for good coffee in Manang


After the Harvest




Between Annapurnas III and IV

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